In 1991, I was living near Ruston, Louisiana and my home burned down. We lived in a rural area about 8 miles out of the city limits and depended on a volunteer fire department. Though they responded rapidly, by the time they got there the home was completely engulfed in flames. We lost everything we accumulated over 10 years of marriage. A month later my 1st son was born. My pregnant wife and I were alerted by working smoke alarms and we got out before we were hurt. I am a firm believer of smoke alarms and what they can do to save lives.
Many things have changed since 1991. Then a smoke alarm was placed in hallways near bedrooms and on each floor. As you can see from the list below, the standards have greatly changed over the years.

Installing smoke alarms:

• Choose smoke alarms that have the label of a recognized testing laboratory.
• Install smoke alarms inside each bedroom, outside each sleeping area and on every level of the home, including the basement.
• On levels without bedrooms, install alarms in the living room (or den or family room) or near the stairway to the upper level, or in both locations.
• Smoke alarms installed in the basement should be installed on the ceiling at the bottom of the stairs leading to the next level.
• Smoke alarms should be installed at least 10 feet (3 meters) from a cooking appliance to minimize false alarms when cooking.
• Mount smoke alarms high on walls or ceilings (remember, smoke rises). Wall-mounted alarms should be installed not more than 12 inches away from the ceiling (to the top of the alarm).
• If you have ceilings that are pitched, install the alarm within 3 feet of the peak but not within the apex of the peak (four inches down from the peak).
• Don't install smoke alarms near windows, doors, or ducts where drafts might interfere with their operation.
• Never paint smoke alarms. Paint, stickers, or other decorations could keep the alarms from working.
• For the best protection, interconnect all smoke alarms. When one smoke alarm sounds they all sound. Interconnection can be done using hard-wiring or wireless technology.
• When interconnected smoke alarms are installed, it is important that all of the alarms are from the same manufacturer. If the alarms are not compatible, they may not sound.
• There are two types of smoke alarms – ionization and photoelectric. An ionization smoke alarm is generally more responsive to flaming fires, and a photoelectric smoke alarm is generally more responsive to smoldering fires. For the best protection, both types of alarms or combination ionization-photoelectric alarms, also known as dual sensor smoke alarms, are recommended.
• Keep manufacturer’s instructions for reference.

• Test smoke alarms regularly
• Smoke alarms should be maintained according to manufacturer’s instructions.
• Test smoke alarms at least once a month using the test button.
• Make sure everyone in the home understands the sound of the smoke alarm and knows how to respond.
• Follow manufacturer’s instructions for cleaning to keep smoke alarms working well. The instructions are included in the package or can be found on the internet.
• Smoke alarms with non-replaceable 10-year batteries are designed to remain effective for up to 10 years. If the alarm chirps, warning that the battery is low, replace the entire smoke alarm right away.
• Smoke alarms with any other type of battery need a new battery at least once a year. If that alarm chirps, warning the battery is low, replace the battery right away.
• When replacing a battery, follow manufacturer’s list of batteries on the back of the alarm or manufacturer’s instructions. Manufacturer’s instructions are specific to the batteries (brand and model) that must be used. The smoke alarm may not work properly if a different kind of battery is used.

The NFPA, as well as Consumers Reports, recommends that smoke alarms be tested each month, batteries changed yearly, and smoke alarms be changed at least every 10 years.

After living through that fire 26 years ago, I recommend:

1. Check every alarm monthly, and remember to use ear plugs when you test them
2. Change batteries in each and every alarm at least every year, and if one alarm starts chirping early before the year is up change all batteries in all alarms at that time. 
3. Instead of replacing the alarms every 10 years, I recommend alarm replacement every 8 years. Alarms do not cost that much, and the lives saved may be yours if the alarm is ever needed.

Final note: Make a plan of action before it is needed. Practice it with your family. Figure out what you will do if there is ever a fire in your home before it happens. If you hear the alarm go off scream and yell to everyone to get out of the home and GET OUT OF THE HOME! After you are out call 911.

If you have any questions about your alarms, how to maintain them, where to install them, or how to test them, call us at Clear Springs Air Conditioning and Electric. We are here for you.

One of the most common electrical devices I replace in a home is the GFI. The GFI or GFCI Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter device's only reason for existence is to prevent electrical shock or worse, electrocution. The definition of electrocution is death by electrical shock.

Technically, the GFCI senses the electrical current flowing between the electrically hot wire and the ground wire. This electrical current should be equal. If the electrical current flow is not equal, even 3 to 4 milliamps difference, it will trip in less than 1 second.

For example, if you are using a hair dryer and because it somehow gets wet and some small part of the electrical current flows through your body instead of through the GFCI, then it will open the circuit and shut off current flow to the hair dryer.

You should find these devices where ever there is a chance you may come in contact with electricity and water, such as the kitchen, bathroom, unfinished basement, outdoors, and in your garage.

There are 3 main types in use in homes and businesses today. The 1st is the wall plug (see photo). The second is a device used on extension cords and is mobile and easy to use anywhere, and the third is in your breaker panel.
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My final comment on these lifesaving devices is that they should be tested monthly. To test them, trip the button marked test, and then reset it with the button marked reset. If it will not trip, or it will not reset, have a qualified electrician check it out for you. These devices are often at the head of a circuit that controls many other receptacles, if they are not wired correctly into the GFCI, it and they will not be protected.